EGYPTIAN FASHION
ANCIENT EGYPTIAN FASHION
INFLUENCES TODAY..
The clothing of
men and women of several social levels of ancient Egypt are depicted in this
tomb mural from the Eighteenth Dynasty (15th century
BC).
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Ancient
Egyptian clothes refers
to clothing worn
in ancient Egypt from the end of the Neolithic period
(prior to 3100 BC) to the collapse of the Ptolemaic
Kingdom with the death of Cleopatra in
30 BC. Egyptian clothing was filled with a variety of colors. Adorned with
precious gems and jewels, the fashions of the ancient Egyptians were made for
not only beauty but also comfort. Egyptian fashion was created to keep cool
while in the hot desert.
Elements of
Egyptian clothing
Sample of ancient Egyptian linen from Saqqara, dating
to 390-343 BC (Late Period)
Modern illustration of a man's tunic in the style
popularized in the New Kingdom
In ancient
Egypt, linen was
by far the most common textile. It helped people to be comfortable in the
subtropical heat. Linen is made from the flax plant by
spinning the fibers from the stem of the plant. Spinning, weaving and sewing
were very important techniques for all Egyptian societies. Plant dyes could be
applied to clothing but the clothing was usually left in its natural
color. Wool was
known, but considered impure. Only the wealthy wore animal
fibers that were the object of taboos. They were
used on occasion for overcoats, but were forbidden in temples and sanctuaries.
Peasants, workers
and other people of modest condition often wore nothing, but the shenti (made
of flax) was
worn by all people. Slaves often worked naked.[1]
Unique
headdresses included the khat,
a loose headcloth worn by men of noble rank, and the nemes, a striped
cloth reserved for monarchs.
Deities
There were
several ancient Egyptian deities related to
fabrics, clothing and weaving, chiefly the god Hedjhotep and
the goddess Tayt.[2]
Pharaohs
Royal clothing is
particularly well documented, as well as the khat, nemes, and crowns
of the pharaohs. The pharaohs would often wear animal skins, usually leopard or lion, as a sign of
their station.[1]
Men
From about 2130
BC during the Old Kingdom, garments were simply constructed. Men wore wrap
around skirts belted at the waist. This style of dress was consistent across
class but higher class Egyptians wore more finely crafted pieces.[3]
While women's
clothing changed during the Middle Kingdom, men's clothing stayed largely
static (as evidenced by available art). The two most notable changes were the
pleating of the skirts and the adoption of the triangular apron by upper-class
men. This starched ornamented kilt was held up by a sash and worn over a
loincloth.[4]
Two tunics and a chest of clothes, tomb of Kha and Merit, 14th century
BCE, Museo Egizio in Turin
Artistic relics
from the New Kingdom show the largest evolution in men's clothing. New Kingdom
art depicts the use of sheer blouses with intricately pleated sleeves, as well
as more elaborate pleating of the skirts with sheer overskirts.[5] Still,
only wealthier citizens could afford these materials[6]
Women
Network dress. Faience, blue and black cylinder
beads, two breast caps and two strings of Mitra beads. 5th Dynasty. From burial
978 at Qau (Tjebu), Egypt. The Petrie Museum of Egyptian Archaeology, London
Egyptian woman in a kalasiris
Female statue with clothing, 2118 - 1980
BC, Museo Egizio (Turin, Italy)
During the Old, Middle and New Kingdom, ancient Egyptian women mostly
wore a simple sheath dress called a kalasiris,[7] which
is shown to cover the breasts in statues, but in paintings and relief the
single breast depicted in profile is exposed.[8] Women's
clothing in ancient Egypt was more conservative than men's clothing. The
dresses were held up by one or two straps and were worn down to the ankle,
while the upper edge could be worn above or below the breasts. The length of
the dress denoted the social class of the wearer.[9] Beading
or feathers were also used as an embellishment on the dress.[10] Over
the dress, women had a choice of wearing shawls, capes, or robes. The shawl was
a piece of fine linen cloth around 4 feet wide by 13 or 14 feet long, which was
mostly worn pleated. Surviving dresses consist of a body made from a tube of
material sewn up one side, supported not by straps but by a bodice with
sleeves. In contrast to dresses shown in art, such linen garments tend to be
baggy, and would conceal rather than reveal the body. It was made of linen, a
material that tends to sag but is shown to hug the body with no slag.[11]
Children
Children wore no
clothing until 6 years old. Once they turned six they were allowed to wear
clothing to protect them from the dry heat. A popular hairstyle among children
was the side-lock, an unshaved length of hair on the
right side of the head. Even though children usually wore no clothing, they
wore jewelry such as anklets, bracelets, collars, and hair accessories.[8]
Wigs
Merit's wig from the tomb of Kha and Merit, 14th century BCE
See
also: Sidelock of youth
Painting of a woman with a wig and head cone,
circa 1250–1200 BCE
Wigs were worn by
the wealthy of both sexes. Made from human hair and sometimes supplemented with
date palm fiber, they were often styled in tight curls and narrow braids.[12] For
special occasions, both men and women could top their wigs with cones of
perfumed fat that would melt to release their fragrance and condition
the hair.[13]
Jewelry
See
also: Ancient Egyptian flint jewelry, Pectoral (Ancient Egypt), Usekh
collar, and Egyptian Finger and Toe stalls
Pectoral of Senusret
II, Metropolitan Museum of Art
Jewelry was very
popular in ancient Egypt, no matter the social class. It was
heavy and rather voluminous. The main reason for wearing jewelry is because of
its aesthetic function. The Egyptians were quite soberly dressed in white linen
fabrics, and jewelry offered a possibility for contrast.[14] The
Egyptian preference was towards the use of bright colors, lustrous stones and
precious metals. Gold was won in large quantities in the eastern desert of
Egypt, but also came from Nubia, that was an Egyptian colony for centuries.
On the other
hand, silver was rare and was imported from Asia. Therefore, it was silver that
was often considered more precious than gold. The eastern desert was also an
important source for colorful semi-precious stones such as carnelian, amethyst
and jasper. In the Sinai were turquoise mines, the deep blue lapis lazuli had
to come from far away Afghanistan. Glass and faience (glaze
over a core of stone or sand) were favorites to replace rocks because they
could be produced in many colors.[15]
The Egyptians
became very skilled when making jewelry from turquoise, metals like gold and
silver, and small beads. Both men and women adorned themselves with earrings,
bracelets, rings, necklaces and neck
collars that were brightly colored. Those who could not afford jewelry
made from gold or other stones would make their jewelry from colored pottery
beads.[16]
One creation that
was specific to ancient Egypt was the gorgerine, an assembly of metal
discs worn on the chest, either over bare skin or over a shirt, and attached in
the back.
Ancient Egyptian cosmetic set from c. 1550–1458
BC, featuring, from left to right, a kohl tube, a razor, a pair of tweezers, a
whetstone, and a mirror
18th Dynasty sandals, circa 1390–1352 BCE
Cosmetics
Main
article: Beauty and cosmetics in ancient
Egypt
Embalming allowed
the development of cosmetics and perfumes.[clarification needed] The
perfumes of Egypt were the most numerous, but also the most sought and the
costliest of antiquity, which used them extensively. The
Egyptians used makeup most of all the ancient people. Nails and hands were
painted with henna.
Black kohl,
which was used to mark eyes, was obtained from galena. Eye shadow
was made from crushed malachite. Red, which was applied to lips, came from ochre. These
products were mixed with animal fat to make them compact and to preserve them.
Both men and women wore galena or malachite eyeliner to
protect the eyes and enhance their beauty.
Findings were
published by American Chemical Society in the
journal Analytic Chemistry suggest that the use of lead in
makeup was intentional. Findings suggest that the lead in combination with
salts produced naturally by the body produce nitric oxide which boosts the
immune system. It is believed that the production and result were intentional.
The increase in immune productivity would help to prevent infections like
conjunctivitis.[17]
Footwear
Footwear was the
same for both sexes. It consisted of coiled sewn sandals of leatherwork, or for
the priestly class, papyrus. Since Egyptians were usually barefoot, sandals were
worn on special occasions or at times when their feet might get hurt.[9]
See also
References
- ^ Jump
up to:a b "Ancient Egyptian
costumes".
- ^ Zecchi, Marco (2001). "The god
Hedjhotep". Chronique d'Égypte. LXXVI (151–152):
5–19. doi:10.1484/J.CDE.2.309159.
- ^ Black, J. Anderson (1980). A History of Fashion. New
York: Morrow. ISBN 0688058353.
- ^ Pendergast, Sara (2003–2004). Fashion, Costume, and
Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear Through the
ages. Detroit: UXL. ISBN 0787654175.
- ^ Strudwick, Helen (2006). Encyclopedia of Ancient Egypt.
London: Sterling Publishing. ISBN 1782744363.
- ^ "Length
of Very Sheer Linen Cloth". www.metmuseum.org. The
Metropolitan Mu+++
- seum of Art. Retrieved 5 May 2021.
- ^ Tierney, Tom (1999). Ancient
Egyptian fashions. Mineola, N.Y.: Dover. p. 2. ISBN 9780486408064.
- ^ Jump
up to:a b Tierney,
Tom. (1999). Ancient
Egyptian fashions. Dover. ISBN 0-486-40806-X. OCLC 45844704.
- ^ Jump
up to:a b Ancient
Egypt: Clothing. Reshafim.org.il. Retrieved on 2012-05-05.
- ^ Egypt:
Daily Life. sptimes.com
- ^ Gay Robin: Women in ancient Egypt (p. 181-2),
British museum press, 1993, ISBN 0-7141-0956-8
- ^ Alfred Lucas et al., Ancient
Egyptian Materials and Industries. Dover, 1934. p. 30-1.
- ^ Chaudhri, S, Asian Journal of Pharmaceutics (Jul 2009), p. 164
- ^ Sims, Lesley (2000). "Clothes &
fashion". A Visitor's
Guide to Ancient Egypt. Saffron Hill, London: Usborne Publishing. pp. 52–53. ISBN 0-7460-30673.
- ^ – Ancient
Egyptian Jewelry. Dr. Maarten van Raven, Curator Archaeological
Museum, Leiden, the Netherlands 2016-01-02. Retrieved on 2016-03-17.
- ^ Clothing
– Ancient Egypt Archived 2017-01-08
at the Wayback Machine. Historyonthenet.com
(2010-04-30). Retrieved on 2012-05-05.
- ^ "Cleopatra's
Eye Makeup Warded Off Infections?" nationalgeographic.com Retrieved
on 2012-05-05.
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